Hoomanao Mau, The origin of Hawai’ian Heirloom Jewelery
The often false report of Queen Liliuokalani’s bracelet, and how her gift to Zoe Atkinson led to the origin of heirloom bracelets in Hawai’i.
Prior to 1778 and contact with Western Influence, Hawai’ian jewelery was carved or assembled with natural materials such as bone, feathers, and famously Ni’ihau shell lei which can still be found today.
Upon the fateful arrival of Captain Cook to the Hawai’ian Islands, the English traded metals such as iron and nails with the Hawai’ian people.
The arrival of foreigners shifted the cultural and physical landscape of Hawai’i, and by the 1848 California gold rush - where many sugar plantation workers left Hawai’i to mine for gold - reports of gold in Hawai’i were prevalent.
Above: Queen Liliu’okalani at the Golden Jubilee courtsey of the Hawaii State Archives.
The origin of Lili’uokalani’s treasured gold bracelet ‘hoomanao mau’ has been reported as two different stories with multiple common threads, they each involve Queen Liliuokalani prior to her reign and a solid gold bracelet featuring intricate engraving.
To this day, the often falsely reported story details Queen Victoria gifting Liliuokalani the bracelet at her Golden Jubilee when Lili’uokalani travelled to London for the commemoration in 1887, although, in 1991, a fax from Windsor Castle detailed there were no records of this exchange but highlighted the gift of a bracelet from Queen Victoria to Queen Emma in 1865.
Above: The fax from Windsor Castle to Philip Rickard confirming Liliu’okalani’s bracelet was not a gift from Queen Victoria.
The second story detailed that the bracelet was commissioned in 1862 for Lydia Paki future last Queen of Hawai’i Liliuokalani, and was inspired by, but not given by Queen Victoria.
Jeweler Philip Rickard spent over six years gathering information on the origin and details of the Queen’s bracelet before publishing the findings in his book: ‘Hawai’ian Heirloom Jewelery: A Lasting Remembrance.’
Despite the changing origin, the description of her bracelet remains exact. A gold bracelet enamelled using old English lettering in black with the words ‘hoomanao mau’, meaning Lasting Remembrance, alongside an internal engraving of both the Iolani palace and a detailed message in heraldic symbols.
The heraldic symbols translated into a prayer of protection: “Always remember that guidance from above protects me, and those I protect by my good judgement, and love of perfection, light, and life, for I am Royalty.”
Above: Translation of the heraldic symbols engraved on Liliu’okalani’s bracelet courtsey of Philip Rickard
The tradition of passing on the bracelets as heirlooms began in 1893, 12 days before Queen Liliuokalani was forced to abdicate her thrown when Lili’uokalani gifted ‘Iolani Palace gala coordinator and Principal of Pohukaina Girls School, Zoe Atkinson.
Atkinson’s gold bracelet was inscribed with the words Aloha Oe: ‘Farewell to thee,’ as well as the date it was given: Jan 5 1893.
Above: the bracelet gifted to Atkinson shortly before the overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom
The students attending Pohukaina, knowing of the overthrow and generous gift, began to wear similar bracelets as an expression of empathy and solidarity.
These bracelets were then passed down as treasured heirlooms once the receiver was old enough to malama (care) for the item; usually as a birthday, wedding, or graduation makana (gift).
Today Hawai’ian heirloom jewelery has expanded from bracelets to pendants, rings, and necklaces and has evolved throughout the years as popular engraving methods and styles changed.
Replicas of the famous bracelets are available today, and Atkinson’s bracelet remains on display at Bishop Museum in the Kālihi Room.